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SpanAfrica Debriefing

This week I completed a debriefing questionnaire for SpanAfrica about my experience in Kenya.  I thought it might be helpful to share on the blog as it provoked me to think about my volunteer work from not only the happy-traveler perspective, but also with a critical eye for improvement of future volunteer experiences.

What work did you do with the organization/s, and what was the level of independence involved?

When I first arrived in Kenya I met with the Director of Wakibe, Margaret Wainaina, to plan my involvement during the three months.  We discussed y previous experience with management and decided my time would be best spent in the hotel/bakery.  It was a goal of mine to help the women’s efforts be more sustainable by encouraging their work and introducing advertising and sales techniques to boost productivity.  Margaret was clear from the beginning that she wanted to be kept in the line of communication with what was happening at the hotel but that she would remain in the clinic and mostly hands-off from the daily routine of the hotel.

Do you have any ideas for future projects other volunteers could plan for at this organization/s, or important information about the specific project you worked on for future volunteers?

To be honest I think future volunteers at Wakibe should have a project in mind before arriving.  Before my coming to Kenya I tried to email Margaret to learn what was needed at the organization but did not receive specific information. Because I did not have much direction before coming to Wakibe I spent the first two weeks making my own assessment of the organization’s needs and asking Margaret if my goals were on-target with her goals. I get the sense that she does not use email often and perhaps communication for future volunteers could come through SpanAfrica directors. If little communication takes place between the future volunteer and the director of the organization I imagine most volunteers would have a similar experience.

From my perspective I believe Wakibe would benefit greatly from capacity building and leadership training.  The women in the support group are not highly involved in the day-to-day routine and yet they are the people who Wakibe should be benefiting most.  Also, with Margaret’s insistence on being more hands-off outside of the clinic, I think more effort could be placed on training managers to take on more responsibility at the school, hotel/bakery, and other income-generating projects.

One of the biggest challenges I experienced was the fact that Margaret indicated she would prefer to not be involved with the hotel/bakery and school, and would like for someone else to take on responsibility in those areas of the organization.  I saw that her lack of direct involvement in these areas has been discouraging for employees. If one or two people could be trained to oversee these areas, there would be more motivation from the staff and sustainable changes could be implemented.  I worry about the development of Wakibe with its existing structures.

Do you plan on continuing to work with your placement organization, either through fundraising, returning as a volunteer, or through other activities?

I do plan to stay involved with Wakibe and I hope for some positive changes to take place.  Unfortunately I had a difficult time connecting personally with Margaret and as a result do not anticipate a lasting relationship with her, but instead one with the organization.  I will certainly remain in contact with a number of the women at Wakibe and hope to support them in the future with fundraising.

Any quotes, or interesting stories, concerning the impact volunteering or just being in Africa had on you?

At this point I don’t even know where to begin in answering this question!  I learned so much from this experience about the good/bad, wonderful/terrible things going on in Kenya and development work.  I was really challenged to make an impact in the lives of people at Wakibe and they certainly impacted me.  I now have a much better understanding of how to make change in the lives of disadvantaged people and how their circumstances are intertwined with poverty and the systems that keep them down.  Volunteers make a big difference on a small scale which is why development is so difficult!  I’ve learned how important it is as a volunteer to notice the small differences that are made in the lives of individuals and how to translate knowledge to support the grassroots organization.

What challenges did you face while volunteering or being in Africa, whether related to the organization you worked with, or personal?

So many challenges…I’ve been asked by friends and family to describe the most important lesson I learned I Kenya, and my answer comes fro the challenges I faced.  I had difficulty in communicating with both the director of Wakibe and my first homestay. As a volunteer these were the two people I interacted with most closely.

With Margaret I got the sense that she didn’t understand me and at first thought it was a language barrier. I learned from other people at Wakibe that she spoke condescendingly to English and Swahili speakers.  I believe she is overwhelmed with her work-load at Wakibe and would like to step back from some of her responsibilities.  As a volunteer coming into the organization very excited about making changes, I was met with a lot of resistance from Margaret.

Another communication challenges occurred with my first homestay, Pitty, who gave me the impression that she was more interested in hosting a volunteer for the financial gain rather than the relationship.  We had a hard time communicating and I didn’t feel she wanted to get to know me or the work I was doing in Kenya.

The lesson I learned from these communication issues was incredibly important because I realized I wasn’t alone in the experience.  Ruth and Amos helped me talk about the challenges was facing and insisted I didn’t have to face them alone.  It was a lesson in cultural differences because as Americans we are taught to deal with our problems independently. In Kenya, and I believe in the SpanAfrica network, there is a strong sense of community support.  I had to learn to be open and discuss my challenges but felt much better about the outcome when I did just that.

How did you find the housing, food, and other basics of living in Kenya?

Both of my homestays were comfortable in accommodation- the second was of course much better with emotional support!  After switching my homestay I felt welcome and really enjoyed the time I spent with them people.  The Kenyan food was fun to learn about but it lacks flavor and variety.  I never got sick from the food, just sick of it!  Overall the accommodations were very pleasant. I appreciated having a bed, electricity, and running water. If I had been in a homestay without running water or electricity I think it would have been a slower transition and larger culture shock.  While some of these amenities were not always working (the joys of living in a developing country) I really learned to appreciate what we had.  I now know that above all, the character of the people in the homestay is much more important than the amenities offered.

What was your approximate daily budget?

Because food and water were covered with the homestay costs, I believe my money was primarily spent on transport to Wakibe (40 shillings per day, airtime for my mobile, and time at the cyber café.  Not all of these costs were daily but I would say on average I only spent a few US dollars per day.

Did you do any traveling while in Kenya? If so to where, and how did it go?

I traveled more than I had planned while in Kenya!  I was fortunate to go to Western Kenya in my first week, which was an excellent orientation.  I appreciated seeing different ways of living—In cities and rural areas—right away.  It also gave me a better understanding of the culture as I met family members and learned about visitors and eating habits.

I visited several SpanAfrica partners and potential partner organizations in Isiolo and Nakuru which made me feel like I was supporting SpanAfrica and learning more about how grassroots projects function.  I spent a great deal of time in Nakuru with Ruth and Amos who were my family in Kenya- they were incredibly supportive to me throughout my stay and I can’t thank them enough for always welcoming me and enjoying the experience of volunteering with me!

On my own I traveled to Mombasa, on the coast, and Masai Mara for a safari.  While these trips were more expensive than others and certainly more expensive than staying in Nairobi, I was very happy to have budgeted for the expense.  Kenya is incredibly diverse in its environment and people so by traveling I learned so much about the country (I visited all but one province!).

Would you recommend SpanAfrica to other potential volunteers?

Absolutely!  I already boast about the network and the wonderful experience I’ve had with SpanAfrica.  I am excited to support in the recruitment of future volunteers.  I would recommend it for so many reasons.  I chose SpanAfrica for my volunteer experience because I was impressed by the focus on grassroots development and the volunteer’s experience.  The cost is lower than many other international volunteer programs and the small amount money clearly goes directly to the volunteer’s experience.  What I couldn’t have expected before going to Kenya was the network and support that all SpanAfrica members seem to provide.  I so appreciated the emails and phone calls from all directors, and the genuine interest in making it the best possible experience for me as a volunteer.

  • Never washed my clothes by hand
  • Didn’t describe peanuts as juicy
  • Thought all mangoes were more bitter than sweet AND was completely unaware of the many varieties
  • Didn’t know a word of Kiswahili
  • Thought that time flew, not ran
  • Couldn’t have imagined the many types and ways to eat a banana
  • Had never been in an environment that I always stuck-out by appearance
  • Took for granted clean water, electricity, and simple communications
  • Thought that dowry was only practiced in eastern countries
  • Didn’t fully understand how to welcome a visitor
  • Couldn’t claim to have seen giraffe, elephants, flamingo, ostrich, rhinos, zebra, and lions in the wild
  • Had never eaten entire meals with my hands
  • Had never ridden 27 people in one van, and furthermore had no concept of a “matatu”
  • Did not have such a temperamental digestive system
  • Hadn’t received marriage proposals
  • Had never anxiously awaited the results of a patient’s HIV test
  • Probably didn’t neglect my Facebook account so much since establishing it
  • Didn’t think that I could be a vegetarian
  • Thought corporations dealt with more bureaucracy than NGO’s
  • Imagined farming required a plot of land and not just a plastic tube with soil
  • Had an addiction to coffee
  • Hadn’t had the pleasure of eating passion fruit
  • Had no idea of the diversity in Kenya- from its environment to people to foods and music
  • Only thought I understood the phrase “international development”
  • Couldn’t have named a close friend who was “positive”
  • Didn’t know of a single food as filling as ugali
  • Wasn’t concerned about illnesses such as malaria, cholera, and typhoid

I had meant to post this while still in Kenya, but I apologize for the lengthy delay in posts!

Mombasa Raha

In Mombasa, the town on the coast, the music, the food, the people all follow the rhythm of jua kali- the extreme sun.  As with most coastal cities the sun seems to slow everything down.  The people use the phrase hakuna matata to remind us that life is slow, we have no worries, and just enjoy.  I was shocked that even the matatu drivers and conductors take a slow pace.

Although only a 6 hour overnight away, it’s like another world from Nairobi.  A popular European tourist attraction the beaches are spotted with amenities foreign to most Africans.  But the most noticeable difference between the two largest cities in Kenya is the ease of life- Mombasa Raha.  Spending a week in Mombasa was like a special treat and a great way to begin saying kwaheri to Kenya.

Sunrise on the beach

The fishermen set-out early

Fresh mango juice- YUM

I arrived at 5:30 a.m. on Friday, after a restless night on the bus.  It was just in time to watch the sunrise on the beach.  My travel companion, Pablo (believe it or not he’s German) has been to the coast many times over his past year in Kenya.  He knew the inexpensive places to stay and eat which was greatly appreciated by this budget traveler.

Outstanding beach performers

Camels are not native to the coast, they reside in Northern Kenya

But attractive nonetheless

After our first day at the beach we moved to Mtwapa, a small coastal village just minutes from Mombasa town.  Our hotel, the Beach Bar, is a 30 minute walk or 5 minute piki-piki ride from the main road in Mtwapa and lacks all amenities one might consider as a tourist.  But we slept in a hut on the beach and drank Tusker under the palms.  I have to be honest, it was not completely perfect…it has been raining in Mombasa so everything felt a bit damp and we actually had one night without water in the taps.  But these bumps in the road served only to give us a discounted rate on the accommodations.

The hut we stayed in on the beach

Our beach view from the hut, mangroves on the left

From the bar of the Beach Bar

The day the rains fell we spent in Mombasa town.  First visiting the infamous Fort Jesus- known for its part in the Arab slave trade.  Next we walked through Old Town.  My love of anything old and full of character had me delighting in the twisted streets and patina architecture.  Pablo found an English compass from 1885 in one of the many antique shops, and I a vintage postcard of Mombasa streets.

Daunting entrance to Fort Jesus

Old Town door knobs

The boys who were begging for their photo

Mamas on the streets of Old Town

As it rained we perused the spice market, smelling and tasting curries, fruits, and masala.  I learned how very different the flavors of passion fruit are between Tanzania and Kenya (for the record Kenyan passion wins by a long-shot).  Our market guides tested me on my spice knowledge as they shoved in my nose freshly ground ginger, saffron, turmeric, cardamon, garam masala, red/white/black/green pepper, and pili-pili (ground chilies).  This foodie was in complete heaven at the spice market.  We finished the day with an early dinner at a local Indian restaurant.

Can you place the spices??

The fusion of Arab, Indian, and African influences is very apparent in the food.  We ate swhili street food one night and basked in the combinations of coconut and curry.  Wali wa nazi, kuku wa nazi, wa nazi everything (nazi=coconut).

The mosques are singing morning and evening

One of Mombasa's few landmarks

My friend Celestine was also taking a holiday in Mombasa, visiting her cousin Edwin.  On Sunday a group of us went to the south beaches, the most beautiful beaches on the coast.  We took the ferry across the canal (Mombasa is actually an island in a bay) and spent the day with Tusker and live music.  Because our hotel was difficult to access after dark, we needed to stay out all night when we hopped the clubs.  Sporting my African dress and sunburn we danced the night away until 6 a.m.

2 Fishes, an old hotel that was burned by employees 20 years ago

My last few days in Mombasa were spent with Allan’s cousin Shadrock, his wife Margaret, and 1/5 year old son Cliff “CJ”.  I was expecting Shadrock to look like Allan so you can imagine my surprise when a much larger man and muscular man greeted me.  Shadrock is the trainer for Serena Hotel, Mombasa’s most exclusive resort.  He and Margaret graciously opened their home to me –the Kenyan way.

Margaret and Shadrock

I forgot to take photos of Cliff until the very end, when I was leaving and he was sleeping!

The outdoor yoga stdio at the Serena Beach Hotel

After nearly a week of lounging on the beaches and discovering the local rhythm and flavors of Mombasa, I reluctantly returned to Nairobi.  With only two weeks left at Wakibe and with all the wonderful people I’ve met in Kenya, I’m beginning to feel nostalgic.  The time has been running and I likely won’t be sending much of my remaining time at the cyber!  Speak to you in the States…

If medals were awarded to the adventurer who conquers a travel feat, as a pilot earns his wings, I would surely have received my golden compass this weekend.

Jessie accompanied me to Nakuru for the weekend and by Saturday we were looking for nature.  We decided to take a day trip to Lake Bogoria.  Before embarking in the morning we were given the following advice:

  • Take a matatu from the stage in town
  • Don’t pay more than 300ksh, it’s only one hour away
  • Bring eggs

And off we went.  The matatu ride was pleasant, passing red wheat fields and pineapple plantations.  Did you know each pineapple plant bears only one fruit per year?  Hence pineapples are one of the most expensive fruits on the market.

More than two hours after leaving Nakuru we arrived in Marigat, only to be told this is the city the driver would be leaving us, not Bogoria.  Because he had said in Nakuru that he was taking us to Lake Bogoria and we expected to be dropped just meters from the lake, we were given a free ride from Marigat to Bogoria- about 40km away.  As traveling wazungu we needed to be cautious of not getting cheated, which is an all too common practice in Kenya as people here assume the whites have money to spare.

The distance between Nakuru and Lake Bogoria seemed to be growing by the hour.  When we reached the small town of Bogoria we were told the lake is still 13km away from the National Reserve gate.  This presented an entirely new set of complications…

A National Reserve or National Park are tourist hot-spots and quite costly to enter.  This particular reserve charged 2,500ksh per adult non-resident.  In addition, we couldn’t walk into the reserve and needed to hire a mode of transportation.  Most people come prepared for this and bring a car or travel by tour bus. We were on foot with little cash.

Initially we were quoted 2,000ksh by a piki-piki (motorcycle) driver to take us to the lake, again, money we didn’t have.  After much persistence, the batting of eyelashes, and a very frank statement: “you can take this small amount of money and let us into the park or we leave and neither of us gains” we were on the back of Abdallah’s piki-piki for 400ksh and 200 entrance fee.

But what a treasure the lake turned out to be!  Between the galloping gazelle, thousands of flamingos, and stunning hot springs, it made our longer-than-anticipated journey well-worth the trouble.  Traveling through the reserve we were quite a sight to see.  As Land Cruisers and tour buses zoomed past us we puttered along the gravel path on the back of Abdallah’s piki-piki.  The three of us enjoyed a delightful picnic of boiled eggs from the hot springs, sat under an acacia tree listening to African music, admiring our surroundings.

Well-worth the ride

Volcanic hot springs

Abdallah cooking our eggs

Getting back to Nakuru was just as interesting as the morning excursion because by the time we were able to leave Bogoria we experienced a severe shortage of matatus and the mwingu (dark clouds that bring rain) were descending.

People hanging from the already-full matatu

In Marigat we waited for a matatu, only to be shoved into the only remaining vehicle which was already full.  Matatus uncomfortably seat 14 people; this one held a record number of 27 passengers for the two hour ride.  I’m quite certain it’s the most awkward position I’ve ever held and I kept wishing my ass was just a few inches wider.  I was between two seats, with two people on either seat next to me.  Most people in this position would have partial cheeks on each seat but I wasn’t quite wide enough and kept slipping between the two!

We arrived in Nakuru after dark: a little dusty, sweaty, hungry, and tired.  But more than anything we felt exhilarated by our accomplishments of the day.  We traveled to Lake Bogoria to see stunning wildlife and returned on such a budget that would make any avid traveler proud.

Something I’ve really enjoyed about Kenya is that its people are well-informed. Kenyans from all walks of life read the paper and watch the news. They all have an opinion about the new draft constitution andd the political powers. They keep up with matters of corruption and insist things will change.  So while I know a great deal about Kenyan politics and news-worthy events, I really miss being informed about my home country and the rest of the world!

Before coming to Kenya I assumed the BBC broadcast would be easy to find and Financial Times or the Wall Street Journal readily available.  Or that Kenyan papers would have a healthy scope of world updates.  Wrong.  The world section is dominated by African politics and I’m missing the information overload we accustom ourselves to in the west.

It took me awhile to learn of Europe’s volcanic erruptions which paralyzed international travel this week.  What I have heard much about is the $10 million lost from halted flower sales to Europe.  In Naivasha, a small city between Nairobi and Nakuru, many of Europe’s flowers are grown and exported.  The volcano has had devastating effects on many sectors across the world, and is hitting hard in this major part of the Kenyan economy.

Naivasha has also had its fair share of bad press in recent months as the flower farms have been accusted of polluting the waters of Lake Naivasha with fertilizers. Thousands of fish and other wildlife have parished, leading environmentalists to launch a campaign against the growers.

World Malaria Day

Sunday, April 25 marks the annual World Malaria Day, to raise awareness about the disease and boost preventative measures in high-risk areas.

Malaria kills thousands of people each year, especially in the malaria-belt of Africa.  In Kenya it remains the leading cause of mortality and morbidity in most parts of the country.  In some districts it accounts for 30-40 percent of outpatient and inpatient attendants in most health facilities.  While I am not in a malaria-prone-zone in Nairobi, other parts of Western Kenya are at heightened risk following floods and heavy rains in the past month.

The Kenyan Ministry of Public Health, Kenya Red Cross, the Global Fund, and the US government are all supporting an anti-malaria campaign to dispense insecticide nets and free medication.  Currently the anti-malarial drugs cost between 500-700ksh, a cost too high for residents in poor rural communities, some of which are living in the highest-risk areas.

Malaria is particularly debilitating for the people with HIV whose immune systems cannot fight the infection.  Many times death is attributed to malaria or TB although HIV is the underlying cause.

Before coming to Kenya I was prescribed Malarone- a strong anti-malaria preventative medication that I take daily.  However, the Malarone does not fully protect me from the disease if bitten by a malaria-carrying mosquito, and I would still need a local medication if infected.  For this reason I wouldn’t necessarily recommend the Western meds for visitors to Nairobi, especially because malaria in the city is fortunately not common.

Another option would be to drink tonic water, which contains quinine, a very mild but more natural anti-malarial.  This is why gin and tonics became so popular for British colonists in Africa and India!

One of the beds at the Wakibe clinic- most people in Kenya have mosquito nets, even in Nairobi where malaria is not usually found

I was forwarded this article by a long-lost friend and thought it was very interesting/depressing. 

A reality I have come to learn more  about in the last month: with the exception of few, African governments are squandering much-needed aid for health care and development.  The book in my recent post, The Shackled Continent, highlights this fact poignantly.  Most recently in Kenya we learned of misappropriated funds that should have been used for free primary education.

Exciting Updates!

London Tube Map, easiest way to navigate the city

Unrelated to Kenya I wanted to share the good news with my readers that I’ve now been accepted to three graduate programs (or “postgraduate programmes” as they write in the U.K.)!

Before traveling to Kenya I applied for programs in London to pursue my masters in health psychology. When I thought I had completed all the leg-work before leaving the U.S. I was soon notified of small set-backs to my perfectly planned timeline- a gentle reminder to be flexible when traveling across the world.  But first came my acceptance to the British Psychological Society for graduate membership (a critical first step in the process) then soon after letters of acceptance from the University of Westminster and Middlesex University.

Today I had a phone interview (of course after much trouble with international calling) and was accepted to London Metropolitan, the same uni a close friend is attending this year!  Monday will be another phone interview with City University and then the decisions fall into my lap.  I’m thrilled to be this much closer to my dream of living in London and long-awaited goal of graduate school.

I also feel as though my experience in Kenya has absolutely given me new goals and interests to pursue in the field of health psychology.  I’ve learned so much about women’s health and empowerment in development work.  I can now fill some of the gaps in my future plans that have felt a void for some time.  As I told Dr. Murray in my interview, I believe each experience directs future paths.  So while I have many goals (like working on my PhD.) I refuse to dedicate myself to one way of achieving the goals.  I expect that the masters program next year will further point me in the best direction and shape my future in psychology.

I also know that I have a lot of headaches and fragile nerves awaiting my return as I take time to secure finances and my student visa…

A young man stumbles out of a Nairobi slum bar and drunkenly drops to the ground. At first glance one might assume it’s just another case of too much beer and he will soon awake with little more than a pounding headache.  But in the slums of Nairobi this scene may have a drastically different ending- complete with blindness or death fo the young man.

The illicit brew chang’aa has found more victims than usual in the past week, resulting in police raids of chang’aa bars across the city.  Its brew masters, unable to afford the typical ingredients for making alcohol, resort to methanol, jet fuel, and even the chemical used to preserve bodies in the morgue for the fermentation process.  Hidden in the bushes so as to not give away its makers, the barrels of chang’aa can also be easily tampered with. 

When more than 13 people were found dead in one slum last weekend the media coverage erupted.  Something tells me its taste cannot possibly be appealing and I will stick to my Tusker, asante sana (thank you very much).

The Shackled Continent

After just three weeks I had read all the books I crammed into my suitcase. What I considered one of the best packing tips was enjoyed for such a short time!  Unfortunately good books are difficult to come by, even in cosmopolitan Nairobi. The used books (often outdated) are more expensive than new in the U.S. Fortunately I have met volunteers with a book exchange program and borrowed numerous pages from Baobab’s small resource library.

Source: www.guardian.co.uk

Most recently I read The Shackled Continent by Africa editor for The Economist, Robert Guest.  Although slightly too economic for my pillow reading, it takes a fascinating look at African development, or lack thereof in some cases.  Using personal stories from his travels intermixed with historical accounts of most sub-Saharan countries, Guest eloquently details how the poor have become poorer despite international aid pouring in for decades.

Commenting on where aid fails: “If donors earmark money for education, it may cause the government to spend more on education, or it may free up the money that the government would otherwise have spent on education to be spent on something else.  If the government is benevolent, this may mean agriculture or tax cuts. If not, this could mean limousines for ministers and batons for cracking demonstrators’ heads.”

This is an excellent book for the “what-not-to-do’s” of development work in Africa.  It is also a careful reminder of how some countries, however disadvantaged or resource-rich, are only sinker deeper into corruption and government failure.

Also re-read this week (for the first time since fourth grade): The Giver, by Lois Lowry.  Let it be a message to celebrate colorful communities devoid of “sameness”.

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